The spray from the fall towering high above me reached towards the rock outcropping I stood on alongside the Little River. The spray would make any long exposure tough, for it threatened to hit my camera lens long before the exposure completed, but I was willing to (no pun intended) take a shot. I focused the camera up and attempted to quickly screw the high powered ND filter onto the lens. In my haste I allowed the filter to slip out of my fingers in the wet conditions, striking the rock with a force no filter was designed to sustained. One look at it confirmed its days of usefulness were at at end, and in a moment of anger and frustration I chucked it as far as I could see. Jess saw what I had done and raced over to scold me, and she was right. I had littered the forest, though that wasn’t my intention and the consequences of what I had done didn’t even pop into my head at the time. But as I said before, I was angry. (There’s a popular saying that it’s impossible to hike in the woods and be angry. That person clearly never hiked with a photographer).
It’s easy to assume I was angry at breaking my filter, and that’s not incorrect. I was. But there was more to it than than. That filter had sat in my camera bag for months, waiting patiently to be unleashed in a way that Florida provided laughably few opportunities. As I had established the day before, this filter really was my “secret sauce” that thing that could take a picture and really look magical. Here I was, finally in the filter’s natural habitat, where it could be fully unleashed and where the only limit to its usage was the amount of hours in a day, and I had broken the damn things after waiting half a year to use it. But my anger was greatly added by the fact that I was sick. And I was damn tired of being sick on most of my vacations. Our schedule vacation the year before had been centered around seeing many springs and doing many paddles; in the event I fought a cold that kept me from swimming much for fear of cramping that was never too far away. I had been taking antibiotics for an infection; at this point, I scarcely worried about the infection, but antibiotics just grow in ferocity the longer you take them. I’ve never handled them well, and I wasn’t handling them well either.
I politely informed Jess of my frustrations and why I had done what I did. Well, I don’t know if either one of us was really that polite in this situation. At least I understood what she was saying, and I was able to communicate my cocktail of frustrations. As it turned out, thanks to Amazon Prime I was able to have a new one shipped to one of our hotels in short time, and I only had a single day of vacation without it – one in which I actually wouldn’t have had much opportunity to use it anyway. And while this was one disappointing happening towards the end of our hike, it in no way overrode the absolutely enchanting experience we had on the Triple Falls Trail at Dupont State Forest.

A rather newly created state forest south of Brevard, North Carolina, Dupont State Forest repeatedly popped up as a recommended hike in my trip research. I couldn’t quite fathom why. While the Triple Falls hike naturally offered the chance to see three waterfalls in a relatively short distance, I wasn’t overly impressed by images of any of them. There weren’t any vistas along the trail to supplement the waterfalls, so if the waterfalls weren’t that great, how could a waterfall-centered trail be a top hike? Skeptical as I was, it made sense for us to visit, as we had found lodging in Brevard for two nights (no easy feat to be able to book two nights a row during the busy fall season) at a fun-looking retro-themed hotel, and the state forest was just minutes from town, quite a treat when you’re visiting mountain locations. We were going to have find out for ourselves whether this state forest met the hype.

We set out fairly early that morning. The weather was delightfully cloudy, with some light drizzling happening on and off, but it was supposed to get sunny later in the day, perhaps before we finished this morning hike. Dupont was only a moderate hike of a few miles, with elevation change not really being a factor all things considered (this was a boost when planning the trip as my hip’s ability to be hiked with was truly in question). Though Dupont offers a wealth of hiking opportunities, the three falls route we were doing, visiting Hooker Falls, Triple Falls, and then High Falls, is the signature hike of the park, and garners the bulk of visitors who enjoy the casual hike. There are several different ways we could do this hike, but we opted to visit Hooker Falls first since my research advised that one tended to get busy quickly and I wanted to photograph before others arrived.

The car was parked in the gravel lot and we set out on the path, trail guide in hand, cameras having to be a bit protected as the leaves were still wet and dripping from the recent rain. The path was wide here, and in fact would stay wide for the duration of the hike to accommodate a high volume of traffic, sometimes for cyclists and equestrians as well. It wasn’t long before we started seeing some of what made Dupont standout; absolutely gorgeous forest. Where we were at was a fairly low elevation, Appalachian rainforest type area, so there wasn’t an overwhelming amount of seasonal color to be found at this point, but what there was mixed very well to provide a stimulating, full palette of reds, greens, and yellows as you hiked through the lush forest. The path was strewn with red leaves, which made the color more encompassing, as even the ground reflected the color, rather than just containing a dull pathway.

Hooker Falls was scarcely a few minutes down the path. Our first view was a lateral view, and a barricade prevented us from getting closer at this point. Moving down a little farther, however, lead to a wide, flat rocky area which provided the perfect vantage point for a downstream view of this fall along the Little River. Hooker Falls itself wasn’t all that impressive of a fall. It had a single tier of 15-20 feet which was so flat and straight it resembled a dam. Nor is its wide plunge pool, a rare non-descript section of the Little River which provides a swimming hole during the warm months, much to right home about. Yet somehow the spectacle of Hooker Falls in this forest made it more scenic than such a basic fall had any right to be. It was nicely framed by the varied forest surrounding it, and I enjoyed photographing it as we were the first to visit on this day.

Leaving Hooker Falls meant returning towards the parking area, where we we cross the river and pick up the Triple Falls Trail. We had made the short trek to Hooker Falls with the sound of rapids from the nearby river escorting us. I had resisted the urge to explore them for want of ensuring I got a shot of the actual waterfall, but on the return trip I decided to explore the side trails. There were nice sections of smooth rapids, and as I had not yet learned that seeing something nice in person doesn’t mean it makes a good photograph, I attempted to snap a few long exposures. I resisted the urge to spend too much time however, and we soon pushed forward.

Crossing the river on a wide bridge offered a great view of what was an absolutely gorgeous section of river. With the foliage somewhat stripped back and the rapids being small and sharp, it somehow reminded me of a scene either up north or out west. We followed the river upstream along the trail, and I really admired the glances I got of it but was a bit saddened that a truly unobstructed view for a photograph really wasn’t obtainable.

By now, the sun was already beginning to peak out from behind the numerous but thin clouds, and as we plunged back under the canopy of the forest everything was illuminated perfectly. Somehow, there was a perfection to the woods too. Everything just seemed to be in its right place, organized but wild, something that its hard to believe could have developed over time, somewhat at random. It was just magical. I was really beginning to understand why Dupont State Forest was a popular place. The trail continued to follow close to the Little River, and I took a couple more very short side trails out to the river, looking for compelling long exposures but failing to find any.

While in mountain terms Dupont State Forest had pretty negligible elevation gain, that didn’t mean it was entirely devoid of uphill climbs. In fact, on this hike, the elevation seemed to come all in one uphill burst, which we started as we approached Triple Falls. We began the falls with the loud sound of three successive cascades beckoning us, and I was a little taken aback by how impressive my first view of these falls was. Halfway up the hill, the trees opened and provided an unobstructed of the top two tiers, with part of the bottom tier visible below.

A bit further up the climb I was happy to see a set of stairs branching off from the left of the trail to provide access to the middle tier. And when I say that, I don’t mean a viewing platform – it dropped you off right onto the flat rock expanse that made up the middle tier. There was a very wide area to walk, with the rock being maybe 70-100 yards at its longest between the two falls. I was able to walk right over to the top of the bottom tier, which was entirely safe as the water was not close to this section of rock. Peering down, I was a little surprised to find someone was walking around the bottom tier, leashed dog in hand. I hadn’t recalled seeing any kind of real trail branching off as we had passed that area. I tried to shoot the water running downhill from here, but I never seem satisfied with shooting waterfalls from above, and this was no exception.

By now we were far from alone in the forest, though there weren’t too many people packing onto Triple Falls just yet. What was there, however, were several barricades, providing a guideline for how far one was allowed to venture out onto the fall. This was an issue for me as there wasn’t a way to get a shot of the upper two tiers, my best opportunity for a good shot, without a barricade in it. Try I might, but I was never able to successfully remove those barricades from my shot. That’s just the way it is.

Two waterfalls down, one more to go. The stairs down to the rock at Triple Falls hadn’t seemed like much when the promise of a waterfall view awaited on the way down, but they seemed much longer going uphill. Finishing them only led to more of the uphill on the trail. And in all, this wasn’t a huge elevation gain, but my legs were still a bit tired, having done Tallulah Gorge and Glen Falls the day before while also being on medication. I was pleased when the trail flattened out again, with the level trail being host to more of that perfect forest we had seen earlier.

Soon we were greeted by a sound much louder than even the three-tiered Triple Falls. This was the roar from High Falls, which I found quite aptly named on first glance. There were several alternatives for seeing High Falls, but where the trail split, with one going uphill towards an elevated viewing area (and also a covered bridge), while the other stuck to river level and worked towards the bottom. This trail divergence actually occurred some distance from the fall. I prefer falls from the bottom, so we stuck to river level. Our approach meant our first view of the falls actually came around a river bend, which was in itself quite striking. I wasted no time getting a shot of this.

I worked my way along the flat rocks of the river towards the fall, and after a short distance I looked behind me to discover another nice view. I grabbed this one as well.

Unfortunately, the trail which had been so clear before essentially dissipated into several paths which can scarcely be called goat paths. So close to the falls, I was going to make it there, but the path proved very challenging. Tripod in hand, I worked my way through brush, under trees, and along rocks precariously perched along the edge of the river. Finally, I made it to a long, wide rock outcropping I had spotted, which reached all the way from near the bend to the base of roaring High Falls. The fall absolutely roared as it towered overhead, but its imposing height was not enough to block out the sun which was at this moment perched directly above the fall in such a way that photographing it would be next to impossible. With that in mind, I focused again on the river bend we had just navigated. Here, with the trees somewhat stripped back, the river again looked something like a scene from a western or northern area, not Carolina. I used the big guns to capture a frame I was very happy with before I would turn my attention back to the big fall. As its very easy to knock the camera out of focus or have other technical issues with a long exposure, I wanted to take the shot again to try to ensure I had a clean version of it. That was when my filter flew out of my hands, and that open rock which had seemed so convenient a few moments ago was suddenly far less convenient when my filter was falling right towards it.

Thankfully, I had gotten the shot on my first attempt, but I wouldn’t be taking any more long exposures on this hike. As it tends to be, the death of my ND filter was a bit of a buzz kill, and I didn’t even try to do a futile long exposure with a waterfall that was both directly in front of the sun and also roaring at a higher rate than would be pleasing to photograph. I had to retrace my steps following the rough path through the brush along the river bend before picking up the more established path. Taking the sun angle and the loss of my filter into account, we really didn’t care to add the extra mile+ it would take just to get the view from the High Falls overlook or walk to the renowned covered bridge which had remained out of view from our angle at the base of the falls. (We would see the covered bridge on a future trip, and I’m glad we didn’t waste steps taking this side trek, as it was a very modern looking structure that lacked the character I though a covered bridge would have.)

Given a choice, I always prefer to do loop hikes, but there is some benefit to retracing one steps, at least in places like Dupont State Forest, where you get to see different views of that same awesome forest. And I savored every view of the forest I got.

As we walked the moderate distance back to the car we talked about how we could replace my now-departed filter. But more than that, we also marveled at just how much we enjoyed this hike. Even though I found High Falls more impressive than I anticipated, I wouldn’t say that any of the falls alone are necessarily top ticket items among the wealth of opportunities that North Carolina provides. Rather, Dupont State Forest is greater than the sum of its parts. The greatest feature it offers, absolutely stunning, pastoral woods, isn’t one that stands out when evaluating potential hikes, but when you can combine that with multiple waterfalls and a picturesque Little River, all while not being very strenuous, it makes for a very good hike.

I felt good about what we had experienced that morning at Dupont, but overall, I felt kind of rotten. I might have anticipated having problems with my hip at this point, but my hip couldn’t have reacted better. Somehow, it was a total non-issue, and felt better today than it had done the day before (something I would find happened regularly on our longer trips, as it reacted well to getting stretched out.) Instead, I just felt miserable from the antibiotics I was on. We still had more than half a day left, and I had a notebook of potential stops we could make in the area, but my brain could scarcely conceive of doing might right now. Thus far everything in our trip had met or exceeded expectations. Would I be able to overcome this latest hurdle, and would things work out for this as with everything we had done before? These were valid questions as I struggled to keep my head up on the curvy, scenic road back towards Brevard.


























































































































































































